Nouakchott 1

The night in the tent is pretty cold and when the sun rises a little past eight I stand up. Its Thursday so I need to go to Senegal Embassy to collect my visa today as they will be closed Friday and Saturday for the weekend. My bike registration only lasts seven days so I need to get to Senegal on Monday… No time to lose so. Nouakchott, the capitol of Mauritania, is a crazy town. Kindergartens for example are open at night only because daytime is to hot anyway most of the year and all of the freshwater in town is delivered on wheels – mostly by trains and trucks!

I have to search for more than an hour to find the embassy as there is only a small flag at the top. No signs, nothing. When I come there I got the wrong file printed so the guard at the door is very helpful and tries his best to print the right file from my usb pen – unfortunately without any success. I meet Andi and Julia too and say hello when I enter the embassy but they are just being called into the office. I have to solve the printing problem anyway – but no problem, a young guy who is there just jumps on the bike and shows me the way to a shop to print (I would never have found alone) and back. I expect him to ask for money but no, he smiles at me and thanks me for the ride on the bike.

When I come back Andi and Julia are gone but my papers (Copy of the first 2! Pages of the passport, 1 picture and the print of the email confirmation with the barcode – as well as the passport of course) are fine so I am told to collect the passport at half past 2. That was the nicest embassy abroad ever I think and go to change money, get internet and care for the yellow fever vaccination.

Suddenly a guy tries to stop me but I simply ignore him and stop a few hundred meters later in front of a money changer. The guy comes after me and starts talking to me. He is dressed properly and looks ok so I ask him where it is possible to get coffee and wifi. He actually offers to change money at a pretty good rate but I don’t do this on the street usually. I invite him for a coffee and he tells me a lot about Mauritania and what is possible here. For example a one year residential visa for 80 euro – half a year would be 60… I will need a visa on the way back and getting it in Dakar will for sure be more expensive than 60 euro… I really start thinking about this option but answer that my vehicle registration is valid for 7 days only.

No problem he says and stands up. I pay for the coffee at an amazingly beautiful black girl and we go. 10 minutes before I have to be back at the embassy I have a 15 day extension for the vehicle registration in my pocket and the Senegalese embassy is just around the corner. When picking up the passport I meet Andi and Julia again, my new friend is waiting outside. Visa is fine so we decide to quickly get a green card (vehicle insurance) for West Africa too. Unfortunately this seems to be not possible in Nouakchott. Moltar (my new friend) changes some money for us and then I say good bye to Andi and Julia as I want to stay in Mauritania a few more days and they will head to the border tomorrow.

I haven’t eaten all day so Moltar and I go back to the café this time to eat something and for me to get internet. I invite him again which is very ok for me for all the help and somehow expect him to ask for money… But after exchanging fb contacts he suddenly stands up, says thank you for the invitation and maybe we meet the next days and leaves me alone being very impressed.

When coming back to the camping ground an intercontinental rally has just arrived and I am very pleased to see many KTM Adventures. I get some very good advices during this evening.

 At one time I just come out of the kitchen and fall over a dog who bites me in my trousers – clearly my mistake and I say excuse me by petting him a few minutes. Later one of the guys from the kitchen visits me in my small hut (had to change from the tent because they are reserved for the rally people tonight). We make music together for a long time and he tells me about Mali. What he is telling is not the first recommendation and the south of the country seems to be perfectly safe. I will go to Mali embassy maybe Sunday and check if visa is really possible.

At one time I recognize the dog I had been falling over lying in front of my huts door (which is actually a more a curtain). I ask him to come in but he is too afraid and as I try to pull him in walks away. Later, when writing this lines he is outside again. I think he is my favorite new friend of the day even tough this is stupid to say. It was such an amazing day and I met so many incredibly nice people I could write five more pages and still have not told about all the great and beautiful people I got to know today. What an incredibly beautiful country!

Nouadhibou – Nouakchott

 

N20°55’33” W017°02’22” – N18°13’08” W016°02’10”

Jan 29.

Km today: 485

When I want to pay the room before leaving I find out it is 13000 whatevers and not 3000. I am a little confused and it still seems to be ok for the bathtub and I had to heat the water using my TAUCHSIEDER so the electricity bill will pay the high price back. I am at the Freeteks place around 11 o clock just to tell them I will go ahead today – I like to arrive well before sunset so I have no hurry finding a place to sleep. It’s a different rhythm travelling on a bike or in a caravan too. They are just about making breakfast and I am hungry too so I want to hurry to the next petrol station (where ever that might be).

I hit the road and as I find out at the first village 100km later there is a petrol pump but only Diesel available. 180km to the next real petrol pump they tell me which are 20km less than I have petrol for. Game of luck but I hope they tell the truth and go on slowly to save petrol. The landscape is amazing and I am not really in a hurry anyway. 100km further there is a police checkpoint and a petrol station – but again only diesel. 60km more they tell me and ask for my guitar so I make a little music for them. They like the music and unlike in Morocco they show it and the guys even start singing with me! One guy is going same direction and promises to help if I run out of petrol (again).

Luckily the real petrol station appears 40km before I am completely finished and I even meet some nice guys from the Netherlands there. They tell me about a place to stay about 10km before Nouakchott. A camping place with some nomad tents directly at the beach. They tell me about many Mosquitos being in town and not a single one at the beach. That is enough information for me – price is 5 euro per night in the tent so this seems cool too. They also tell me that they know the situation I have been in in the morning pretty well. Telling one price in the evening and another one in the morning seems to be the most common tourist scam here – even more as the mauretanian French is very hard to understand sometimes when it comes to numbers ;). Best solution as we figure is to make them write the price down on a piece of paper and then keep it. That’s what I will do now.

A little after the petrol pump I overtake Andi and Julia and that’s the last time I see them today. 160km later I take a little piste at the right leading to the recommended beach. The camping ground is amazingly nice and run by the first French guy ever I like from the first moment. A few more overlanders stay there too so all is great. I go back to the main road to ask at the checkpoint to send Andi and Julia to the camping ground too. They should be about half an hour behind me so I expect them to come soon. They told me about a camping ground in town where I can come to meet them if we get lost.

However I stay and they don’t appear. Nicolas tells me later the police told him that they had not been at the checkpoint either. I hope they have no problem and will go to town to the meeting point tomorrow. However its already dark and even if I would go back I would never find them.

The camping ground is ice and I love my tent at the beach. Shared tent is 2000 (5 euro) like promised but unfortunately there is nobody to share with. Alone it will be 5000 but I speak to my new French friend Nicolas and he makes a nice price for me. Great place to be if u are in the area just use the coordinates at the top to find here. By the way the landscape started like desert today and became greener and greener then – more grassland then desert, seems like Sahara is finished already!

In the evening I meet a guy from germany in Nicolas’ restaurant and he tells me that three days ago some guys tried to kidnap friends of his in the no mans land between Morocco and Mauretania threatening them with machine guns. Seems like these lawless 4km between the borders are the only dangerous place here. So for the way back I will wait for other overlanders to go together too. Its probably strongly advisable to do so when taking this way.

Western Sahara – Mauritania (Nouadhibou)

 N22°03’16” W16°44’51” – N20°55’33” W017°02’22”

Jan 28.

Km today: 150

I hardly sleep this night so I am happy we are not in a hurry and I can sleep a little more in the morning. When finally waking up I check everything on the bike as its standing on a clean place (I have to mess up – no but honestly its nicer to lie on clean floor than on desert sand), have two coffee and then hit the road to catch up with Andi and Julia at the border. The landscape becomes more and more amazing but here it is very not recommended to leave the road as there are lots of mines out there. Last year three French offroaders died when “finding” one! Even though I make quite a few stop on the 80 km to the border I catch them when I arrive there.

Leaving Morocco takes about half an hour and then we enter “No Mans Land”. Several kilometer between western Sahara and Mauritania without road, laws or authority. The first time I have no option but to go offroad. Its really crazy how big trucks manage to pass this border! The Mauritanian border is very friendly and straight forward too, no bribes have to be paid, only 10 Euro for the registration of the bike and another 10 for the insurance for 10 days. The registration is only valid for 7 days so I will have not much time in Mauretania.

Sun is nearly setting when we leave the border so we decide to sleep in the closest town at a peninsula similar to Dakhla. The landscape becomes real desert now and the sunset is mindblowing! After Andi and Julia stop at a place where they will stay for tonight I go on to town to check a hotel that was recommended to me at the border. Its dark already and I really don’t like arriving in a new town after dark and needing to find a place to sleep then.

The recommended place – ABBA Hotel is shit. All the rooms are full and I am offerd to sleep in a shared sleeping room with a French guy. No possibility to lock anything and mattresses are lying on the not very clean floor. He asks 3000 whatevers (7,50 euro) for me to sleep on one of them. I thank him a lot and leave. On the way back to the city I see a big white Mitsubishi and a guy in an important looking uniform just about to drive away. I stop him and ask for a hotel – he tells me to follow him and then minutes later we stop in front of a hotel with inside parking for the bike, huge amazingly clean rooms, big bathrooms with BATHTUB (!!!) and wifi for the same price: 7,50 euro! I would love to stay here for longer but unfortunately the vehicle registration…. The guy at the reception is unbelievably friendly and smiling all the time – so is the waiter at the restaurant where I eat a little later. Mauritanien people are really friendly! You can see and feel immediately they are not that much wasted by tourism like Indian or Moroccan people are.  

Dakhla – Nowhere

 

N23°42’03” W15°55’47” – N22°03’16” W16°44’51”

Jan 27.

Km today: 300

I will meet the Freetech Nomads at 1 o clock to continue together so I have a shanty morning and slowly pack my stuff. I get petrol in Dakhla and when leaving the petrol station I hit something at very low speed with my left luggage box. The bike falls down (again..) but nothing happens but both boxes falling off. Why do the stupid things have locks if you just need to kick down the bike to open them…? I put them on the bike again and stop at my friends place 5 minutes later. Today is the first day it feels hot so I really need to take of some clothes before we leave. I drink a coffee and talk to some UN soldiers while the others take some petrol at the next petrol station. In the truck they will be much more slowly than I am so I take some more 20 minutes before I hit the road.

When riding through the nowhere I start calculating how long it will take to catch up and then I pull the gas handle. For the next hour I go 120 – 130 in a moderate sidewind and 150km after the petrol station I finally overtake them. Now I drive a comfaortable speed keeping around them maybe going a little to the front to take some pictures. Soon we take a little break at a place where the beach is just a few meters away from the road.

The tide is low and we discover an octopus in the rocks so we try to take some pictures teasing it to come a little out of its cave. Perfect chance to make nice pics with my waterproof camera I think but the octopus doesn’t like flashlight and just grab my camera out of my hand taking it into its cave! F*%$ing thieve! After some attemps I quickly go to the bike to get my gloves as I don’t want to get bitten by that pretty large specimen. When I come back 3 minutes later the water has already risen a few centimeters so I have to step in the water to get to the cave. I quickly can feel the camera and the octopus that is obviously hiding behind it. Its holding the camera strong but luckily I can grab the little line at one end. Holding only the camera I can hardly move it but pulling the line very hard I can move it little by little. Now its just a question whose muscles get acetous first and mine are way bigger… just don’t want to break the camera so I take a few more seconds until I finally get it back. I make a few more attempts to get out the beast as well but no chance. I am happy I got the camera back anyway and my eight armed friend even took some selfies…

After that adventure its late already so we go on quickly. The UN soldiers had promised a petrol station after 200km which I am desperately waiting for. The last one I passed at high speed hunting the truck so I am pretty empty. Last time I went 70km when the reserve light was burning and now a small village is promised to be 55km after it turned on. Carefully going on suddenly I feel the petrol is done! I can do a few more km by turning the engine on, accelerating in very low tours to maybe 90, then switching the engine of rolling until I am at 40 and then turning on again. I can see the village at the horizon when I can’t turn the engine on anymore 293km after putting petrol to the limit.

Five minutes later the guys in the truck arrive and help me out. Half an hour later we meet some overlanders at the village coming from the south and sharing some important information with us. The border is only 80km to go and the sun sets. As we hear it makes no sense to be at the border early so we decide to stay. In this amazingly nice place (pictures next time) in the middle of the desert I get the most clean room ever in Morocco for only 100DH. That’s amazing! In the evening we sit together in the truck and chat and make music. There is no hurry tomorrow.    

Cape Bojador – Dakhla

 Jan. 24

N26°07’32” W14°29’09” – N23°42’03” W15°55’47”

Km today: about 350

When I wake up this morning I hear the sound of the wind outside. Seems to be stronger than yesterday and yesterday I already thought if this gets stronger I don’t want to be out there in the desert. I manage to get the key for the rooftop and see a yellowish shining in the lower sky in the desert – sand! I talk to the owners of the place and they advice me not to go to Dakhla on the motorbike today. They seem to like me and its hard to tell if they maybe just want me to stay… I make a walk to get a coffee and some copies of my passport to hand them over at the police checkpoints. Its only 350km to Dakhla so there is no hurry and when I pack the bike around lunchtime the wind slows down a bit.

I leave town at 12 am and then cross 350km of pure desert neighboring the coast of the Atlantic. There are only 4 petrol stations out there one being 145km after Cape Bojador, two at 170 and another one 230km later. That’s it, nothing else but desert and a wild coast (of which there is hardly something to see). I enjoy the road a lot as there is way less light sand in the air and the wind is mostly hard to recognize when riding – as soon as I stop its stormy.

I try going offroad again several times again but fully loaded the bike seems to heavy so I let it be after two or three attempts. A little before Dakhla I even drop the bike in the sudden wind when making a stop for taking pictures. Lucky enough nothing happened and the next car that comes along stops and the driver helps me to lift it up again – no problem.

Arriving in Dakhla I first see a lot of campers (again) and kite surfers in the bay. I go nearly to the end of the peninsula and after checking a hotel which is way too expensive I decide to get coffee and food first. And, as I hope the guys who run the restaurant tell me the way to a cheap hotel. The hotel is old but I have a bathroom, a balcony and a big window in the big room facing the sunset. For 100DH a pretty good deal – they even have wifi!

Seems to be a good place to wait for one or two days for two friends from Austria who should be around Cape Bojador by now riding another KTM and driving a Caravan.

Morocco – Western Sahara

 Tan–Tan – Cape Bojador

Jan 23.

N28°26’00” W11°06’21” – N26°07’32” W14°29’09”

Km today: +/- 500

I didn’t sleep very well and jump on the bike as soon as I wake up. Without even having coffee I hit the road and decide to take a coffee at the next possibility. About 1.5 hours drive through the desert I stop at a petrol pump which is the next possibility to get coffee either. Its pretty windy and all is full of sand. In the east it looks like a thunderstorm in the desert and to my right is see the sea most of the time under a blue sky. I am in between with a few drops hitting me every now and then. After having coffee I get stopped at the police station and my passport is being checked. Like in Pakistan they write down my details before I go on – and like in Pakistan this procedure is reapiting itself several times this day. Seems like I arrived in Western Sahara! Arriving in Tarfaya I notice the petrol is a lot cheaper here too – only a little more than 70 cent per liter! After Tarfaya the road turns left and I go more or less directly south now. The wind is blowing a surface of sand on the road hitting from the north so it soon looks like I am riding on clouds! Hard to describe but it looks fucking awesome! This way the wind not only produces great optic effects but also enhances my speed. I arrive in Cape Bojador around half past four which means two hours before sunset. Ad Dakhla is still 350km away and in between there is only a very small village offering a café and two petrol stations. I am tired anyway and take a nice, clean and big room with a nice hot shower for 150DH. Garage for the bike included and wifi available. This place IS recommended!

I have no idea why the pictures are completely mixed up – they have numbers at least…

Sidi Kaouki – Tan-Tan

 

Jan 21. and Jan 22.

N31°21’22” W009°47’30” – N28°26’00” W11°06’21”

Km today: +/- 500

Tuesday I get bad news – It will be not possible to get the vaccination anywhere in Morocco but in Casablanca. I don’t want to get 500km back and forth again on the motorbike so I ask for a bus. Fortunately there is an overnight bus to Casablanca for just 7 euro so I will lose just a little more time. I pack my stuff and prepare everything to go to Casablanca at night with small luggage. Just as I am about to leave my good friend, Gudny from Iceland who travelled the same route last year, tells me I can get the vaccination in Mauritania as well. Awesome! I go riding again on the beach at sunset and as the things are already packed I can enjoy the evening at the beach.

Next day the alarm wakes me at half past seven. I get up, drink a last coffee with Rosina and hit the road. Today should be sunshine everywhere and tomorrow rain in Agadir. If I can do the 500km to Tan-Tan today it shoukd be sunny tomorrow. I pass Agadir around lunch time. Until now the landscape was desert like but still pretty many trees – now this changes! I feel more and more like in Balochistan as the landscape becomes reddish and empty. And like every time when I approach the really dry places of the planet….. it starts to rain! However I arrive in Tan-Tan a little before sunset and the local Moped Gang helps me finding a hotel. Very cheap for 60DH including a place inside (in the restaurant for the bike! I take a little rest and get some food. I feel a little itching and find out there are obviously bed bugs in the bed. A little later the lady who owns the house comes to ask for more money so I show her the bites. She moves me to another room but still asks for money. I close the door of the new room. That’s just a little too much now.

By the way I got stopped by the police twice today, once for speeding (well there was a 60 in the middle of the nowhere in the desert) and once for driving without helmet in Tan Tan on the way back to the hotel after delivering my hotel find helper back home. Funny enough both expected somebody from france on the bike and when they found out I am from Austria and understand not a single word of whatever they say they just told me to go (which I didn’t understand).

Enjoy the pictures I really had an amazing day on, and for the first time of the journey off the road. I took several kilometers next to the road and it was great fun!

 

Sidi Kaouki and Essaouira

 

Jan 19. And Jan 20.

N31°21’22” W009°47’30”

km: around 50 to Essaouira and back

Sunday is sunny and I let my birthday be a lazy day. I enjoy the sun on the rooftop and sleep all afternoon. Totally relax!

Monday morning I go to Essaouira with my host Rosina. I still need to get my yellow fever vaccination so we go to the hospital. The doctor there says they don’t do it here and I have to go to Casablanca which is more than 500km north. I cant believe it and decide to go to a private doctor. When asking for one people ask me why I didn’t give money to the doctor… Well he didn’t ask me and there were sign not to do so everywhere. I maybe should have taken that as a hint. The private doctor writes a prescription, no problem. Vaccine is not available at the pharmacy so they order in Casablanca (no need to go there myself surprisingly) – will be there within 24 hours.

I ride back to Sidi Kaouki alone, have a café on the beach and then decide to make a horse ride as the horses look very nice and Ibrahim who is a real nice guy whom I had met on the first evening here comes with me. The last time riding is very long time ago so I need nearly half an hour to get back in balance with the horse. I can literally feel what the horse is thinking about me during that time. Hopefully Ibrahim is an unpatient teacher so after half an hour we ride along the beach in full gallop. I have a lot of fun and decide to do this again tomorrow as I have to stay another day for the vaccine anyway.

Medhia – Al Jadida – Sidi Kaouki

 Jan 16. – Jan 18. 2014

N34°14’58.5” W006°40’44” – N33°15’14” W008°30’19” – N31°21’22” W009°47’30”

Km: approximately 570

Next day we get up early to get our Mauretania visa in Rabat. We get stuck in the traffic, take a lot of time to take pictures and get photocopies of passport and visa form but still manage to be at the embassy before the deadline at 11 am. We can collect the visa in the afternoon at three they tell us. We decide to have a rest at the surf camp in Medhia and come back by motorbike (in the morning we went by car because of predicted rain) in the afternoon. Heavy rain started at lunchtime so we went back to the city by car again… At three there were a lot of people waiting in the pouring rain in front of the embassy. At around 4:20 pm they finally opened the gates and we got our visa. It took only a day and went pretty straight forward but be careful with weekends: closed from Friday to Sunday!

Friday is the day to say good bye to Joe as I will go on south a little faster now next stop being the hippie place Essaouira where Jimmy Hendrix was and Mick Jagger got arrested. Its already pretty late when I leave and I make a stop at a modern shopping center a little before Casablanca. Even though the weather is supposed to be ok it starts raining more and more in the afternoon so I stop at a small town called Al Jadida and look for a place to dry and sleep. Hotels are getting cheaper again and I easily find a place below 100DH to stay. It’s a nice small town with the Medina reminding me a little of Yazd in Iran. After coffee and walking around for some time I find a place to eat. The waiter is a nice guy who studies linguistic and speaks amazingly good English. He invites me to come for breakfast next morning and take my guitar then. I agree and say good night just in time to get a nice shave on the way back to the hotel. In the evening the rain had turned into a heavy thunderstorm and late at night even hail is falling.

When I wake up this Saturday morning I still hear rain at the window so I get a picture in my head of spending all day in the room and not going on. Anyway I pack my stuff and step out into the rain to get coffee just a little before nine. I look up in the sky and its blue – still raining though on this obviously sunny day. I go to get coffee where I had been the day before. Sitting outside with the guitar nobody takes any notice before I go inside and ask for coffee (there definitely is service outside). Inside the TV and radio are switched on so the guitar remains in the bag until I go to pay – then suddenly the guys are really surprised and ask why I leave without making music. They ask me to go up to the second floor (its like a big balcony inside overlooking all the café), turn in music and TV and serve another coffee. Soon two more amazing guitarists arrive carrying another guitar and we make a really nice morning session. I enjoy a lot! And I make one or two really nice videos of the guys. (will be online when I am back home like all the videos). I manage to be back at the hotel just in time for the check out at 12 so I leave Al Jadida at 12.30 asking myself if it is a good idea to leave such a nice place regarding tomorrow is my birthday… Still I am attracted by th hippie beach of Essauoira and anyway my Mauretanian visa lasts only one month starting at the day of issuing so it is no good idea to waste to much time – I will be back in this town when going back to Europe I promise to myself.

The ride along the coast offers amazing views! The weather is a little wet every now and then just to keep the lense wet on my first attempt to use the Gopro remote for taking pictures. Never mind. Between the villages I am at the coast of Ireland and whenever I see people I feel like I am in india. The waves are amazing and sea sun and clouds create nearly surreal views with a fog lifting from the wet lands under a blue sky with black clouds to my left. I pass Essauoira in the evening moving on to a small village recommended by the host in Medhia beach. After being offered a rat hole of a room sharing kitchen and shower with a german couple for 200DH I have to laugh and leave quickly. As soon as I am out I get offered a room just around the corner run by a spanish girl. Clean, lots of light, Indian interieur and a kind of family place for 100 only.

I get food, coffee and after some time Andy, a guitarist from Great Britain arrives. We have a lot of fun together this evening even though I am not sure if I like this place so much. It seems to be very touristy and a little more expensive when it comes to food and shopping. However I will stay here for my birthday and I will try to get yellow fever vaccination at the hospital here.    

 

Tangier – Moulay Bousselham – Fnideq (Ceuta) – Medhia

 N35°46’52” W005°48’24.5” – N34°52’49” W006°17’46” – N35°50’56” W005°21’15” (N35°53’15.5” W005°18’34”) – N34°14’58.5” W006°40’44”

km: around 620

I spend some more days in Tangier and on Thursday I feel healthy enough to move on. Next stop is Moulay Bousselham where another nature reserve for migratory birds including flamingos attracts me. Arriving there I am just in time to enjoy sunset. While having my first guy a young guy who either just arrived comes to me and starts talking. He has lost his passport and is pretty finished. His name is Joe and he is from Teneriffa travelling overland in a Jeep from one beach to the next mostly for the waves (He is an 18 year old surfer). We decide to take a nice apartment on the beach together and next day in the morning we take a boat out to the lagoon to do some bird watching. After half an hour on the boat my small movie camera falls into the water at the bottleneck of the lagoon. The tide is up so the water doesn’t move… We try to find the camera for some time using nets but when the tide goes down the current becomes stronger and we have to give up. I am pissed.

Next day (Saturday) morning Joe goes back to Assilah where he believes his passport to be.while I try everything to find a possibility to replace the camera I lost (even though the files including one nice sunset in Chefchauouen and the ride to here are lost). As I expected there is no possibility to get a gopro camera in Morocco and sending would cause problems because of customs. Fortunately I find a small shop in Ceuta who is Gopro dealer. Fernando, the shop keeper whom I contact via Internet reacts immediately and is extremely helpful so I decide to go back to the north to visit his shop to replace the camera. Joe fortunately gets back his passport so at least this problem is solved.

Sunday morning I agree with Joe to meet on monday in Kenitra (260 km south of Ceuta close to Rabat, the capitol of Morrocco) where he will go today. I go back to Ceuta border where I stay for the night. Monday morning I quickly (no joke) cross the border to go shopping and then take the motorway south. Fernando invites me for coffe in Ceuta, gives me some tipps as he is travelling on two wheels either and of course gives me all I came for. If you need any GOPRO supply in this area visit Fernando! His “Corner Shop” is located inside the Benetton store and you will find it at N35°53.258’ W005°18.666′,by clicking this link or just calling him at 0034636023039 – his phone.

I arrive in Kenitra around sunset and take more than half an hour before I turn round to check out a hotel I had seen close to the highway. Joe didn’t send me a message until I left the morrocan border town so I need to check internet anyway and if the hotel is not to expensive and there is no message I could maybe stay there. The hotel is amazing but way to expensive. Fortunately Joe has written a message so I get a coffee and try to find him. My front light is finished so it is little hard to ride all through the city with far distance lights only but the traffic jam is way better and I find Joe about an hour later. I had been raining all day so the road to the hotel is covered with lakes of water to a depth of more than 30cm. You never know when riding into one how deep it will get so I have some little adventures before arriving at medhia surf club.

When I get there all is fine. We quickly get some food and go to bed soon. The next days I fix the front light and wednesday evening we want to drive and ride into the sunset at the beach. Joe had told me about driving along the beach for 40km so I can’t wait to do it! We do hardly 50 meters down to the water until both of us get stuck at the beach at a beautiful sunset. Joe fortunately manages to free his car by taking some air out of the tyres and then goes up to the surf camp to get some help. Four of us easily manage to get the bike up to the road again too so we are lucky and again have some adventure today.