Pushkar days and nights

A look into your eyes
For a small part of a second
I lost control
I lost the floor beneath my feet
I was falling
To realize I am flying
Floor became illusion (and)
The look in your eyes reality

Your eyes became the sky
Your smile the wind below my wings
When your eyes closed
sky became dark
stars began to shine
air became clear
I already felt the warmth of the dawning day
when they opened again
I was blinded by the sun
two days and one night of bliss
within a part of a second
within a look into your eyes

Thank you for this inspiring moment!
HariOm (Pushkar Dec. 3 2012)



Diwali night in Pushkar! I am just so happy to spend all the most intimate family moments with my family at enigma cafe and miss my small family at home.

Pushkar – coming home

November 3. – November 6.

First days in Pushkar it is hard to calm down my restless european mind. It takes two days to get a new sim for the phone and the key for ravis farm where Suryananda (the caravan) and Omtatsat (motorbike) are. I don’t even have a padlock for the room these days because they all are inside Suryananda. Monday morning Ansu and me borrow chillies bike to get Omtatsat and some things from Suryananda from Ravis Farm. Omtatsat had been outside in the rainy season – the bike is in a condition that nearly makes me cry. I don’t even try to start. I quickly get the most necessary things from suryananda and we head to Bablu, my mechanic. Shop is still closed and when we call him he promises to be at enigma in an hour. In the meanwhile I organize my new sim and as Bablu isn’t at enigma three hours later I go to the market and ask Max to bring me to his workshop again. When we arrive there Bablu is sitting in the shadow drinking chai being surprised to see me before he remembers the phonecall.

Five minutes later we are sitting on his bike heading back to Ravis farmhouse. I quickly search some more stuff in the caravan but before I can even start I hear the engine running. Carefully, with half flat tires and nearly no brakes I ride Omtatsat back to Bablus workshop. He promises to cure her within 24 hours and even gives me his personal bullet so I don’t need to wait visiting friends who are a little out of Pushkar.

The first of whom is Rajendra. He owns an amazing Hotel near the goamuk temple (the baba in this temple would have been the second one to visit if I hadn’t surprisingly met him at the market in the morning) and we are friends for several years by now. We are both very happy to see each other and soon disappear in a room for peacefully drinking chai together. Suddenly Raju tells me he needs somebody to help him managing the hotel – if I want the job…? Listening to the details the conditions sound more than interesting. Still I don’t have any plans so I ask for one day to think about it.

On the way back to Pushkar I make a stop at Bablus workshop. My Bullet is nearly finished, I am happy not to be able to recognize her since last seen. I remember my first ride on this bike a few years ago. Compared to the 100cc bike I had been riding before she was so strong and so heavy. Nowadays my comparison is the KTM Adventure and Omtatsat feels rather small than strong and heavy. Still she is a beautiful Oldtimer and no bike ever will match her sound!

In the morning Ansu invited me to make a concert at enigma tonight as we had a lot of fun making music the night before at UTurn. I manage to get my instruments which are stored at a different place in the farmhouse and arrive at enigma at 8 o clock carrying the guitar and the didgeridoo. My voice is already suffering from singing too much so I am quite happy to have the didgeridoo for tonight. Soon the rooftop is full and everybody enjoys a lot. After we had finished an old guy comes up the roof. Asking if there was still somebody playing I reply joking we still take donations but at the same moment take the guitar to sing one more song.
After exchanging a few words he leaves again promising to bring his guitar in five minutes. My voice is already more than finished at that moment so I switch to the didgeridoo which is much easier to handle as I play it for more than 15 years compared to the guitar which I play for maybe half a year now…

When I make a break Loyd is back with his guitar clapping his hands telling me in his eyes the didgeridoo is the hardest instrument to learn. I disagree just to be happy all the more only seconds after he starts to play. Shortly after I have tears in my eyes. He is a master of singing and guitar and I am not able to get that stupid smile out of my face. I just sit and absorb the music that is touching and tickling my soul, sometimes singing with him sometimes just listening but being one with the sound every second. In between the songs we talk a few words and immediately start liking each other. He is a 72 year old british whos secret it is “never to have friends older than me!”. I want to learn from him and when I ask him how long he will be in Pushkar he replies: 6 months. A friend of his owns a first class hotel in Pushkar and he will be manager in the 6 months to come….

Delhi – Pushkar

November 2. – November 3. 2012

The first thing to do after touchdown is to change the simcard in my phone. No connection n the plane, no connection on the airport… What to do. Like always I am joking with the immigration officer who is making good fun of the people in front of me. Me he calls Mr. Ghandi…

Out of the airport I find out the metro is not working and the taxis are more or less all gone. Hopefully I find a Spanish couple who had already been waiting for some time to share a taxi to Pahar Ganj. At 9.30 pm I am in front of New Delhi railway station – train is leaving at 0.59 am so I slowly walk down the main market to visit my printshop for eventually making business cards. Shop is already closed so I buy a diet coke at the neighbors shop and start talking to the shopkeeper. I tell him about the simcard problem so we go to a shop of a friend of his. “Simcard expired” he tells me “number is gone you can´t get back”….. Kya karega… What to do…
We walk back to the shop where I had the coke and I take place on the step of the shop. At this narrow street I have to raise my legs for every bike passing by. After a little time I take out my guitar and start to make some music. It´s late already and in the narrow, echoing street there is not much traffic so soon I am surrounded by people. A Spanish guy tells me about his baba who is here too and invites me to the ashram. “No money – all share, if you just make music everyone will be happy!”. Sounds interesting and the baba, who is just coming down the stairs to listen to my music too seems to be an amazing guy. Time passes soon so I take some of their business cards and leave to the train station.

At the train station I find out the train is leaving from Old Delhi. Damn, what a stupid mistake! I never had a train leaving there so I did not even check the train station where to go! The guy at the railway station tells me to go to Connaught place to change the ticket and quickly arranges a taxi for me. As I thought there is no ticket available for the next 3 days. I ask for the price of a taxi to pushkar. 14.000.- rupees – haha good choke. After little negotiation on the phone we go to a travel agency next to the railway station where I get a taxi for 8500. Still expensive but it´s 1 am. At Vienna airport you probably don’t even get a drink at this time of the day. Surprisingly the driver arrives at the office before I even finished my chai.

Chalo Pushkar! Being incredibly tired by now I soon lie down in the back of the car more pretending to sleep than actually doing so. As soon as we are out of Delhi the driver takes a rest to sleeping on the front seat for some time. The next time I wake up we have a flat tire. I get up and we quickly change it together. Dawn is already coming and the area looks familiar. Batteries of the gps are empty but I am pretty sure we will be in pushkar one nap later. One nap later its foggy. Asking my driver where the sun is he replies there is no sun – we are in Jaipur now. Half the way to Pushkar only. We take a chai after Jaipur and go on. 100km before Pushkar we stop again. The driver wants to repair the tire. He jumps out of the car and is gone. After waiting for some time I get a chai which gives me a bad feeling because I can´t lock the car which is out of sight when I am at the chaishop. People at the chaishop want to chat with me and I do least possible not to be impolite and return to the car.
After some time the shadow moves away from the car and it becomes hot inside. I have no idea where the driver is. I have the phone number of the guy where I booked the car but my sim doesn’t work… What to do but wait – you are in india now so fucking get used to it I think and smile. “char puncher” – four holes, the driver explains his disappearing and we go on. Around 2 o clock in the afternoon we finally stop at varah ghat in front of Pushkar Lake.

Ansu is just coming up the ghat and both of us run to hug each other. It´s good to see there is a lot of water in the lake when we have chai at U Turn. I check in by putting my stuff in a room that is not occupied, buy a bunch of roses and make a walk through the market to say hallo to everyone. Same like last year the love I feel on this walk is not to be described. At Enigma I meet monica and ansus and manis mother who are as happy to see me as I am to see them. Mani is in Ajmer and will come to the UTurn later. At night, a lot of hugs and a belly full of chai later I come back to UTurn. Mani is already there and again I feel a lot of happiness and love seeing him again. He is my oldest friend in Pushkar and we have been through good and bad times together – it feels really good to sit with him at the rooftop again drinking chai talking about the past the now and the future…

When I go to my room later Mogli is just talking to my neighbor who is a little sick. “Delhi belly” she says. If I can help I ask and 10 minutes later we make a little digestive yoga session including some reiki at the end. After she definitely looks better and according to what she says she feels a lot better too.
Ap HariOm ghatam hai. – Now I am finished! What an amazing day. Thank you! Bolenath!

Jan 23 Shirpur – Pushkar

Km today: 700

[26°28´56”, 074°34´01.5”]

When I wake up before sunrise I have diarrhea – not nice! I don’t take breakfast and leave as soon as possible. The first 100km are done quickly on the perfect highway but then I have to take a shortcut to avoid a major detour. Road becomes a challenge but with diarrhea more a pain in the ass. What to do… Evening time I am still more than 300km away from Pushkar and I gets freezing cold. In chattigaur a car brakes very hard in front of me… I step very hard on the back brake forgetting it was all made new when the chain was changed, slip and fall. Knee protectors and helmet protect my body so I hardly have any scratch – only the drum skin is broken and one shock absorber is bend so the front wheel is not straight anymore. No major problem so I go on. It becomes colder and colder on the motorbike and I have to stop every 40km when I don’t feel my hands anymore. At 2 o clock I pass ajmer without recognizing because of a mess in the roadsign. I go 40km too far and leave the motorway much too late. On the way back there is a big constructionsite and as my light is not straight I miss the road once jumping in the middle of the constructionsite. I am lucky I don’t even fall… Slowly I have really enough of this nights ride as people seem to have sent me in a wrong direction on purpose twice too… Shortly after 3 o clock I arrive in Ajmer and 20 minutes later I am home in Pushkar. Sukha and all people are still awake as they have been waiting for me. Finally home. All of us have a lot to tell so we go to bed short before daylight is coming.

December 26. Pushkar – Nayagaon

[24°35´09.6”, 074°44´43.2”]

Km today: 254

The sun has not risen when I wake up – still I have a lot of packing to do!. When sun finally rises I am finished with cleaning, packing and fixing suryananda (the caravan). I sit together down with Ella who came back from vipassna yesterday. We enjoy chai and coffee and have a very nice talk that showed me a wonderful loving person. I am really blessed with the people I met on this trip I think. When her friend, Moar who has been her for a few days already, wakes up I decide to pack Om tat sat (gods own motorbike). Before going to the market to buy cigarettes the girls suggest to have breakfast together before I go. Quickly (too quickly as I find out later) Om tat sat is ready to go. While waiting for the girls to come back I turn on music and enjoy dancing barefoot in the desserts sand powered by the fresh and amazing morning sun (the music by the solar cells and I directly). Anand! (WIKILINK)

When the girls come back we have a great breakfast together (I already miss your food Saura) and as we are talking about mantras I change the music playing my favourite bajhans now. We talk about the sound massage I did a few days ago too. None of them has tried yet so I offer after breakfast.

Morning sun, Mantras, the powerful place and the people around create a very special energy making me enjoy to make the sound in a way not to be described by words!

Sukha stand up early just to say good bye and I get a flower necklace from Saura even though I will be back soon. He makes a lot of jokes telling me he will come with me. Saura, if you were a girl, I´d marry you straight away!

When I am about to leave I see that I have to repack my bike like Saura and Lalit had predicted. Its not in balance at all and riding is very hard. I want to stop for a chai at Rajus place anyway so I decide to repack there. Raju is unfortunately at the market and I realize I have much better tools for packing in suryananda… So back to Sukha place, pack properly and chalo finally at lunchtime.

I pass the well known streets of Ajmer quickly and as soon as I am on the highway I stop at the first chai shop. Om tat sat makes easily up to 120 km per hour and its way cooler than with suryananda. I realize I really have to get used packing a bike again. I have to completely unpack to get the pullover and a warm jacket! 50km further I stop again for the same reason. I have chai first and want to pay before dressing more (which requires completely unpacking again). I give the usual 5 Rupees to the chai wallah but he demands ten. Using all the little hindi I know I have a short discussion about tourist prices before I turn around to go without giving him one more rupee. I take some time to start to give him some time to run after me but I decide not to do the unpacking action here.

2 km further I stop at some trees to dress there. I am not half done when a friendly guy stands next to meinviting me for chai. Of course I accept! When we talk I ask him about the prices at the close by chai shop and he proves me right – 5 rupees…

Dressed very warm I enjoy riding a lot, the street is in awesome good condition (little boring though: straight and flat) and short before sunset I have done little more than 200km.

I am used to have an eye at the petrol so I stop at a petrol pump. I have 1200 rupees in my pocket, not eaten and no place to sleep yet…. “900 Rupees” I say but at 550 I am nearly full, at 600 we have little more than when making full in Ajmer 210km ago. This means we need on 100 km ten liter less than suryananda – 4l we need! Sometimes I really miss her (thinking about the sleeping problem) but either for warmth, music and privacy!

Around sunset I suddenly have to stop for a few minutes as the road is entirely blocked. A few kilometers ahead, at a railway crossing (!), an accident had happened. I cant figure what exactly happened but I hope nobody is hurt to bad. I pass the Indian way using the smallest slot to sneak through cars and trucks so I can pass pretty quickly.

Driving at night is very exhausting so after using the last daylight I stop at a roadside restaurant to get some food. It is amazing and even more is the cook who loves me for loving his food. Of course I get second (as well as third and fourth) service. By now it is completely dark so the guys ask me where I will spend the night. I want to do some more way but they suggest I should sleep at there shop. I can take a bed in the backside area and don’t even need to unpack as I can park Om tat sat right next to the bed! Bolenath!

This is my first blog entry written by hand. Not like last time in india (when writing everything by hand), this time I have my own computer with me for the first time to do the writing. Still at this place it feels strange to unpack it and sit here having a computer in front of me. I enjoy writing by hand and I enjoy all about the life on the road – like stopping and sleeping anywhere – too much!

Shubh ratri! Good night!

December 17 – 22 Pushkar

I enjoy too much! I realize more and more every day how much I feel at home here. I am back to my old habits: In early morning, after yoga I buy roses and take a walk at the market to give one to all the people who cross my way…. “HariOm!” This where my name is coming from. All people smile with me and this walk takes hours in the first days because of so much chai I have to drink. I see in the peoples faces how happy they are I am back. An awesome feeling!

On one of the first days I meet Barbara and Doro – two beautiful girls from Switzerland at the barber and we make sightseeing tour on the next day. Goamuk temple, monkey feeding, old pushkar lake, Bednad temple – all my favourite places. We all enjoy a lot and promise so stay in contact.

I have lot of fun riding Om tat sat and cant wait to go to Gokarna. It is getting colder in Pushkar morning time is like freezing at below ten degrees. Ansu did Yoga Teacher training too so we do Yoga together in the evening at sunset ghat. We decide to make free Yoga classes again, if possible at the temple so I make nice template. Tomorrow I will go to Ajmer to print it. Yoga classes at old ranji temple are something really special and I can hardly describe the energy I receive when practicing there. Every year I experience something very special there so I can´t wait to enjoy this again.

When sitting in front of enigma café today suddenly a girl from france stopped her enfield in front of us. I know her from spring as we wanted to go north together then. For some reason it did not happen. She plans to go south now too so we decide to meet in the evening to have food together and talk about maybe going to Gokarna together.

At Sukha place everything is nearly too much loving to be true….: A few days ago I come to the kitchen and Saura ask me how I am. Smilingly I reply I am hungry. Saura makes a sad face and says:”Why like this my friend? You make me really sad when you say you are hungry! I am here 24 hours to cook for you so no need to be hungry! Next time please tell me BEFORE you are hungry – ok?”

Leaving Pushkar is planed for December 25. Sukha has planned big Christmas party so it is not possible to go earlier and I have to be back at jan 19. As many people want to celebrate my birthday together with me…!

December 16 Tal Chhapar – Sukha Place (Pushkar)

[26°28´56”, 074°34´01.5”]

Km today:311

I can´t wait to arrive in Pushkar so I start without even leaving the car. A few kilometers down the road I see an awesome temple next to the road. I fall back to old habits immediately and make morning pooja there. The priest welcome me and give me prassat. Its incredibly sweet but its holy so I enjoy. At a railway crossing I have to stop and use the time (about an hour) to refill the tank with the petrol containers and make some chai. Driving is still a little exhausting as I share the street with goats, camels, donkeys, cows and so on, at least the quality of the street is great so I can go pretty fast. I enjoy being home in Rajasthan – love this dessert country full of colors and great smell! 60km before pushkar I decide to take a shortcut as I don’t like to drive through ajmer if I can avoid it. Street becomes little worse but much more beautiful. I enjoy the landscape even though the last kilometers take ages to pass.

Finally I arrive in Pushkar around lunchtime. I stop in front of enigma café to start saying hello to my friends. For some of them it is completely surprising but most already expected me. I have chai at enigma rooftop and take a nice shower only minutes after. A walk through the market to say hello to everybody takes all afternoon and everybody is happy to see me again as much as I am happy to be back. Menash has a kali painting I get as welcome present – I am blessed! Thank you again Menash! In the evening I decide to take the way through the market with suryananda as Max suggests. Streets are very narrow but now everybody knows I am here after this parade!

At sunset I arrive at Sukha place and can hardly recognize it! This place has changed to become even more like paradise! I got an own toilet and wifi at my hut! We have broadband internet and everything is green like in the middle of the jungle! I love what Sukha has done here in the last months! Unfortunately I break the screen of my computer when unpacking it so no internet at the hut the first evening. Sukha says no problem and 2 hours later a friend of him comes to pick up the computer. He goes to jaipur tomorrow so no problem. I have amazing food and go to bed in my old hut again. It really feels like home – even the birds are still here and have raised a little family by now. I am happy I have my mosquito net to protect my sleeping place from their excrements :).