Km today: 319
Today I make it! Last night at paradise and before sunrise I wake up Adam so we chello before somebody can stop us. Prakash is completely surprised I am leaving. I think there was not one day passing without telling him I will leave tomorrow – but we all know what tomorrow means in india – not today! We have Muesli at his place and after get the bill. For 15 days room and more than 7 day breakfast, lunch, dinner and chai he charges 2001 rupees! Much less than I expected as this is less than 30 euro. I give him 2111 brahmin baksheesh and we hug each other very intensely for a long time before we leave. I promise I will come back. If you click the “sponsors” button u can find his address, phone number and email address. If you are around you might want to stay at his place. It is fully recommended for food, hot shower, hospitality and love by the owner family!
The first 70 kilometers are done quickly. Riding Omtatsat feels comfortable even though we are very heavy with 2 persons and full luggage. Little hard to balance when going slow but as soon as I put second gear all is perfect. After half the way the engine has problem again. The mechanic in Gokarn did not get the spare parts so I expected this to happen. I have spare spark plug with me so we stop in a village to fix the problem. Immediately we are surrounded by people who want to help. This time I don’t need. It takes us 5 minutes to change the spark plug while people look at us like they would “look at monkeys that suddenly start writing” as Adam says later.
The road is amazingly good so we are 30km away from Hampi when the sun sets. At the same moment the streets becomes a construction site, the traffic gets crazy and the night becomes cold. At sunset I was fresh and relaxed but when we arrive in Hampi an hour later I am completely done. We go pretty directly to Shiva guesthouse where I slept on my first india trip. I still have a waypoint for it on my gps so we find it immediately. (The waypoint at the beginning of this post is actually 4 years old) Mogli the son of the owner remembers me at arriving and soon we have a room with hot shower.
Again I fall in love with this place. We will stay here tomorrow to enjoy the amazing sight and I want to do some Yoga in the morning on the rocks. We have chai at the rooftop enjoying my music with Moglis speakers and after go out to have dinner: stuffed capsicum! Me like too much!
I stay at this beach for several days – I stop counting them…. All the beautiful people around me are incredible! We spend the days doing yoga, making music, cooking and caring for one another. It is certainly not india – this is truly paradise! The first days I sleep pretty much in the center of the beach close to Isabellas place. A few days after I change to Dihrs place and shortly after I find out Anna moved there too. I gave reiki to her these days – in a moonlight night on the warm rocks close to the ocean.
The energy was amazing! I never felt intense like this! When done she is the second person I meet I am ready to teach reiki. It seems not possible to be done here in paradise as there are too many diverse energies catching our minds all the time but she promises to visit me in Pushkar. Finally I really start learning how to play guitar here in paradise. One day we go to Gokarna and I accidently buy a drum. Waiting at a music shop for Stefanie and Nora (all Austrian here no more hindi bolna) I find an amazing djembe and knowing I don’t want or need it I just offer too less for him to sell. But he likes me and does sell! I buy a plasticpipe too to make a didgeridoo and in the evenings to come we make even more fantastic music sessions together at the beach.
The days start at sunrise with yoga – for breakfast we have chai with fresh pineapple, banana and papaya in the shade of bananatrees. Daytime we enjoy the waves and in the evening we cook and make music. As there is no electricity soon all cell phones run out of power….. The question “What time is it?” ends mostly with the very correct answer “NOW!” – and that’s all about it!
There is only one small chai shop that is supplied by boat so all people make food and chai all day. A pure hippie beach and I love it too much! Life here is kind, (of) pure and happy!
Though I still have desire prolems and they became worse in these days. One day Anna asks me to go to Pushkar together on the bike and I say Yes! (that’s what india taught me!). Next day I go to Gokarna to get the bike fixed. Our Whole camp: Martin, Dihr, Viola, Greg, and all the others I will keep carrying in my heart, are leaving too. People play songs for us when we leave and I tell Anna to come to Belekan in the evening if she wants to join.
In Gokarn I find out the mechanic is not here today, peanut butter no possible and for the barber I have to wait until after sunset. When coming back to Belekan I haven’t done any of the most important things. I decide to take a very small bag with the most important stuff and spend the evening in paradise. Prakash is a little worried about me walking alone in the jungle in the dark because of the leopard but I go anyway and promise to be back latest 1 o clock. I have some song lyrics I have to give back with me so I cross the beach and as I don’t see any of the girls I walk towards their place.
Nobody home but the Israelis next door invite me to stay. I start talking with Adam who is fantastic guitar player. He is interested in learning some yoga and when I ask him what yoga means to him we have a most interesting discussion. He suggests to go to pushkar together and make one week yoga – guitar training exchange. I am welcome to sleep at their place. When going back to Belekan to get my yoga mat and a blanket I forget the room key at their place so I am back after 10 minutes. I am in no way supposed to leave! The place we are now is different to the places I slept before – being more on the side and like a balcony overviewing the whole beach. Similar things happen in my emotions. The days before I felt all the drama surrounding me to an extend making me believe its my own one. (and its lots of drama in a surrounding like this). Now it feels like I moved out of this emotions – its not me anymore. In fact it never was but by massages, reikis and yoga teaching I connected so much to the people to make me feel the same. I love all of them too much so in a way I am happy to be able to connect in a way like this. But it feels good to realize what is me and what is them. In that very moment I hear the beep of my cellphone making me realize my simcard for some reason works again and I have connection too! First time for a week so I can call Dihr and the others who went to Hampi to tell them I will not come that soon.
Its hard to leave paradise – you can check out anytime you like but….
Today in the morning I start silent satsang – and from the first moment I enjoy! After waking up I clean the dishes and enjoy the morning view at the toilet. At the beach … who was playing guitar yesterday is making a beautiful yoga session. I enjoy watching her for a few seconds and then I go – I am a little late already as I have yoga class in belekan in the morning. In Belekan I make a wonderful yoga session with Olga again and have a hot shower and breakfast before I go to Gokarna shopping and Internet. I made little video yesterday and load it up today. While the computer is at the internet café I go shopping: flowers, bread, local made peanut butter, local made peanut butter with chocolate, milk, hide and seek cookies and grapes (YEAH!). Back in Belekan I find out the plastic bag is broken so I lost the cookies and the peanut butter on the road.
I don’t lose any time at belekan and quickly leave back to paradise. On the way I find out I forgot the grapes at the motorbike…. I am too far already to turn around – I will get them tomorrow. Arriving at paradise I meet Nora and … at the chai shop. When they recognize I don’t talk they immediately ask of I do sing in a way that is a big compliment for me. They have a guitar with them so we have chai and sing a few songs together before I go back to our place. We enjoy a lot! Crossing the beach I find out hide and seek possible in paradise! YEAH! Back home david has cooked some amazing vegetable curry! With the flowers I make A big Om at the beach in front of our place and then we enjoy food. Suddenly an Indian guy is coming telling everybody police is coming. Here we are relaxed but in many camps around people starting to clean the place. Later we hear a lot of bakshish has been “earned” this evening. After sunset the other Austrian girls come and we make music together until midnight – I sing while giving massage to David, Isabella and everybody else who wants. It´s just a great evening and I keep on smiling at the beautiful people that surround me all the time. I am happy at paradise!
Waking up at the hippiebeach is great. All stand up early and somebody is making chai so we all have chai together before I have to walk to Belekan to make Yoga lessen. After lesson I have my usual very hot shower and nice breakfast. After I go to Gokarna to get shaved and go to internet. I am supposed to meet Isabella here but my phone doesn’t work. Some problem with the simcard I will not be able to solve before coming back to pushkar. But who needs phone anyway at a lonely beach.
I spend some time in Gokarna so I might meet Isabella by luck. Eating Ghana masala at a restaurant at main square but for tourists the serve only Ghana – the masala I have to order extra – never mind the papaya lassi after food is awesome. I drive back to Belekan and meet Isabella at paradise guesthouse. She left gokarna same time like me but by bus. We put our valueables at my hut and go back to paradise. Coming there we are both completely wet by sweat again. I put my things somewhere at our place and go to take some pictures. 10 minutes later I come back to find the others sitting on the rocks with a guitarlele making music.
Here the sun sets in the sea so we stay until it is completely dark singing and enjoying ourselves. The sunset is incredible and I take many pictures. Isabella tells that she just came from Om Beach. I am happy I did not go there as she tells she left because she couldn’t sleep when all people shouting boom bolenath all the time… Later we go back to the camp to have some peanut butter sandwiches with grapes and jam the others cooked today. Amazing food!
Km today +/- 100 by bike +/- 1 by walk
In the morning we have nice Yogasession at the beach and while we are still practicing Deer and Isabella coming with a girl from Poland to visit the jog falls. Soon after Yoga we hit the road to be back in the evening. We lose deer and his friend at the first diversion where we go left and he goes right. Both roads lead to the highway so even when searching we don’t find each other again. Never mind – we will meet them latest at jog falls, we think and go on. After about 20 km the engine stops but starts again. We go on and have chai in the next small town. After chai the bike starts without any problem so we go on. 7km after the town the engine stops again and we stop at the roadside.
After only a few minutes to Indian guys pass by on the motorbike and stop for us. They know mechanic who can come but before we try to start again. Engine starts! YEAH! Our helpful friends drive in front of us leading us to the mechanic. We have chai there again and wait for the mechanic. After some time we decide to get some food and make a walk of a few hundred meters to eat something. Crossing a bridge we find a nice roadside restaurant where Ghana masala is served! YEAH! My favourite! We enjoy great food and when we finished we see the guy who took us to the mechanic waiting outside. He says the bike is rready and takes us – one by one because of the police on the bridge – back to the mechanic. Engine is better but it is late already so we decide to go back to Gokarn. The engine has not been really fixed so we go to Gokarn city to the mechanic when coming back and to buy food in there. After leaving the mechanic we go a few hundred meters further before the engine stops again. We go shopping and hope a little later it will start again. We buy some amazing local made peanut butter, fruits, vegetables, sweets and all we need at paradise beach. When coming back to the bike the engine does not start so we push it back up the hill to the mechanic. He fixes a new spark plug and for local rides it will be ok now. The spare parts are ordered so the bike will be perfect in a few days.
We ride back to Belekan beach, have chai thee and I pack my stuff. I found out in the morning there are not only ants in my hut (where I never slept) but also some animals that eat my clothes. I take all out of the hut and pack the things I need for the night to take with me to paradise. The rest I leave at Prakashs house where he takes care of it. I cant go to paradise by bike as there is no road so I will split up my stuff and only move the most important things like insulin and yoga mat to paradise.
When we leave Prakash place it is already completely dark. Dihr and his friend we haven’t seen yet and wonder what had happened to them. At paradise we meet david and some Israeli guys and have a nice evening enjoying peanut butter sandwiches, chai, grapes (awesome) and cookies. Soon I go to sleep to be ready for morning yoga tomorrow as I have to do half an hour walk to get back to belekan where my student olga will be waiting for me. When going to bed Isabella is very kind offering me hang mat, a soft mat to sleep on and a pillow. I took yoga mat and blanket with me but appreciate her kindness a lot. Thank you for this awesome day!
Today both of us wake up early enough to do a really nice yoga session in the morning. I enjoy too much! After Yoga I get a great breakfast (Muesli! Yeah!) and then fall asleep. I sleep very nice under the palm leaves in the shadow until afternoon. When I wake up Deer and Isabella are here and ask me about visiting Jog Falls. They would like to go there too so we decide to go tomorrow. Olga bought herself a yoga mat in gokarna so we make evening yoga down at the beach. First time since the yoga break because of the journey I am able to perform turtle! It feels awesome and even though Olga says she can´t do it when I show she performs great. I really love this moments when I can show my students they are able to do better than they think. After Yoga Olga and I go to Gokarna together to do a little shopping. She enjoys the motorcycle ride and we even can find peanut butter in town! YEAH! In the evening josh comes round. We talk all evening and I start thinking about moving to paradise beach. Seems like many people there who want to do Yoga…
I wake up early to be ready for yoga with Olga. I shared my bed with Charraz all night and he seems to be a little pissed I stand up so early but what to do. I feed him and find out he is room clean after. Nice! Olga sleeps a little longer so I enjoy Chai with Isabella from Zell am See. When Olga gets ready we make an amazing Yoga session together. She did some Yoga before and performs very well. Its pure bliss watching her and show her some tricks. After Yoga I take triple breakfast (I am so hungry all the time) have a chai and go to the village to get shaved and have some food there. In the afternoon Prakash wants to come with me to Gokarna but he has little fight with Prassat so he can´t go as the girls speak Kanada only and can´t take any orders from foreigners.
I go there alone to spend a little time at internet and do some shopping. I am superlucky to find hide and seek cookies – they are the best! I love too much! Omtatsat feels better today and I think about making a daytrip to Jog falls. I got Email from a friend from Austria today who will come to Gokarn in a few days so I maybe stay here a little longer. When going back to Belekan beach I stop for two cute Indian boys to give them a lift – I see their happiness being taken by a foreigner on an enfield. I believe they have even more fun than I! Prassat will be leaving in two days too so it will be even more quiet.
When I come back I hurry to Olga and Denis Bungalow to pick her up for Yoga at the beach. Unfortunately she seems to be sleeping so I go alone – too late for sunset but I enjoy doing my “problem” asanas and getting really better in performing them. I feel the differences too – regularly two times daily yoga at the beach changes my perception and makes me too much happy. After dinner Olga, Denis and I make a long walk at the beach and somewhere between some rocks sit down and share the hide and seeks. When we come back only Prakash is at the guesthouse so the four of us have a nice talk until late in the evening
I wake up early and make a shanti morning skipping every bus to Gokarna ten minutes before leaving. Anyway I have little diarrhea – maybe because of switching to the water from the well to quickly after drinking the second chai it gets better so I don’t think about it any further. At 13.00 I finally make it to the bus stop and meet some cute girls from Austria there.
In Gokarna the mechanic changed the spark plug and Omtatsat is better again. Still there is some problem with the spark system so I go back after internet café. A part needs to be replaced but no possible getting it in Gokarna. Mechanic makes a few adjustments and fells me I will make it to the next bigger city (more than 300km). I go back to Belekan beach and when I arrive there the engine stops again. We call the mechanic but while Prakash is still on the phone find out its only the petrol which is low. I switch to reserve and no more problem.
Some pretty old hippies are drinking chai and chatting with Prassat (not Prakash). When he says that all people from Romania are stealing I have fight with him. From that moment he doesn’t talk with me anymore. Sorry, I really have to control myself better, it´s just I am sensitive for sayings like this after the journey I made to here already. Even when I am writing here in the evening he is telling bullshit about Iranians with some Israelis. I feel sad for him being so afraid – of snakes, of cats, of 2012, of foreigners… What to do but to ignore him?
After this fight I go down to the beach to make a long yoga session until it is completely dark. I meet an Indian guy there who is happy to take some pictures – so am I. In the evening Dir comes round again. He is living at Paradise beach with the freaks but he has clear eyes and seems to be nice.He is from Haryana and he says he wants to go back with me to Europe by car. We will see… Olga and Dennis from Ukraine have arrived in the afternoon and they want to do yoga lesson tomorrow morning. I want to leave direction to Kerala tomorrow. Jog Falls – second highest waterfalls in the world are my next target and the journey there can be done within the afternoon I believe. I heard Amma is at her Ashram presently to so I want to go directly there after jog falls and enfield mechanic in Cochin… Anyway the blog entries are getting shorter which is a sign to leave for me. I enjoy Prakashs company too much and I easily could get stuck here but I want to meet Amma.
I wake up just in time to enjoy sunrise on the beach and then have chai. I make a long yoga session again finding out the asnas causing pain are already much easier to perform. After the yoga session I have some of the awesome chutney and chapatti for breakfast and later some more jam toast. I enjoy the morning making siesta in the shadow. At lunchtime I decide to make the walk to paradise beach.
At the end of Belekan beach I take a closer look at the little stream there. I find out its full of fish and many birds are roaming the place on of them a kingfisher challenging me to take some nice pictures. When I come to close he flies away and when I sit without moving for 5 minutes he comes back. Finally I make some acceptable pictures and go on to paradise beach. 20 exhausting minutes of climbing a hill in the heat later I arrive there. It´s an amazing beautiful rocky beach looking like in the middle of a goa party but without music. First I have to cross a heap of their rubbish making me decide to leave again soon. Not like I am used to all full of plastic bottles but many (broken) glass (alcohol) bottles in between too. Fortunately there is a boat I know from Belekan beach so I take a ride back. Prassat and Prakash tell me about a Leopard with two cubs roaming the area. I heard stories like this many times but this time I believe – would be amazing to see this cat in flesh in the jungle!
In the afternoon I want to go to Gokarna again to check if the ATM card is working now and go to internet. When I want to leave the bike starts and seconds later the engine stops again. I try to start for five minutes and then give up. Prakash suggests o go to enfield mechanic in Gokarna by bus. Bus will go in 20 minutes so no problem – I go to the bus stand and wait. Half an hour later still no bus coming so I ask a rickshaw that just came to take me back and directly to the mechanic. Mechanic suggests to take a big car to get the enfield to Gokarna. Car will come half an hour later so I quickly check Internet and ATM. ATM still doesn’t work and I have to change some cash. What to do…. Half an hour later we go back to Belekan beach to put the bike on the car – I stay there and will go to the mechanics workshop tomorrow. So one more day at Belekan beach.
Some more guys have arrived at the guesthouse and in the evening I have a nice chat with josh from Orissa. His father is famous Yoga teacher and he invites me to come to Bhubaneswhar – again my exgirlfriend comes to my mind because she has some connections with that place. I have been there before too so I think about maybe passing there on the way back – it’s a major detour but why not?
The guys from Bengalore wake me up just an hour before midnight so we can celebrate new year together. Cell phone connection is nearly not existent so I need a lot of time to call my mother at least. We make fire on the beach listen to music played on their cellphones and enjoy. I eat a lot and around 5 o clock I fall asleep again.
Next day I wake up at sunrise but turn around again to continue sleeping. At 10 o clock I finally wake up. I take a shower and find out Prakash has the best hot water system I have ever seen in india! There is nearly not enough cold water to mix a comfortable temperature…. Inside the bathroom there is a 15l clay pot to take out hot water. The downside of the pot is outside the house and there is a place to make fire below. The amazing point is the more water I take out the faster the remaining water gets really hot. I take never ending hot shower!
After this I have chai and start the new year doing yoga. I recognized the assna that will help me with my desire problems. I was much better performing them before I left home – now they cause a lot of pain but practicing them a lot makes me feel much more happy and be in a much better mood then in than in some of the days before. When I am finished prassat says he wants to make pooja on a nearby hill for a lingam and a nandi he has found when digging in his garden. We climb up the hill what is pretty exhausting because of the heat and make an awesome ceremony. I regret several times not to have taken the camera. Three of the guys from Bengalore, Prakash and his children are with us too. When the ceremony is done we enjoy the view a little more and then go down to the beach to have breakfast. Chapati and amazing chutney Prakashs wife makes. When helping to clean dishes after breakfast I find a puppy chained next to prakashs familys front door. I ask and then take it to our “living room”. The guys from bengalore give him the name “charraz” – crazy guys! This morning was a perfect start in the new year.
Later I find out the neighbor beach is infamous paradise beach. There is no road there but about 20 minutes walk. Many people from there come today and have food at my guesthouse. Lots of them are strange hippies. I join them for five minutes then I am sick of their “It would be so nice if….. and what could happen when….” Discussion and leave to my hut which is free by now. I recognize a few ants under my backpack but don’t think about it anymore. After doing some writing I decide to go to Gokarna. I want to update my blog and get some money at the ATM. I have tea with they guys from Bengalore and we say goodbye. Maybe they come to Pushkar for holi! This would be really awesome – I like them! At the first ATM the connection times out two times after I have entered the amount of money I want. At the second ATM it says my daily limit is reached…. I go to Internet café and find a possibility to connect my laptop quickly. Again I see many crazy looking tourists in town. I decide to leave to Kerala soon. When I come back to Belekan beach I call my mother and ask her to call the bank tomorrow to check if there was no money taken from my account. I have food and after playing a little with Charraz (the puppy dog) I go to bed. My hut is full of ants of all sizes. They bite me many times before I can remove all my stuff – I decide to sleep outside on the terrace again.