Mijaveh – Nokkundi (Pakistan)

[28°50´63”, 062°44´27.5”]

Km today: 137

We stand up early and have breakfast to be ready at eight when escort service is supposed to pick us up. Half past eight still nobody here so we decide to get petrol. While the others go to petrol station I quickly go to a shop and five minutes later we meet at the petrol station. Police has seen me so soon an officer comes to the petrol station to pick us up. We have a short discussion about the diesel price but soon the problem is solved and half an hour later we are at the border.

Crossing the border takes nearly all day. Money changers everywhere but we get the best rate at the bank next to the police station. We are escorted there from the border and after we still have to get our carnets stamped at the custom office. It gets warmer – I change my winter onion style dress to dothi and t shirt. Finally we leave the border direction Quetta.

A cute old military guy is our escort and he is sitting with me in the car all the way. We have fun listening to music and I find out hindi and urdu are really pretty similar. He understands me when I speak hindi! Unfortunately I understand only little of his urdu but still enough for basic conversation. Few police checkpoints and our escort stays the same – not like in iran waiting every time, guys don´t take our passports and not even want to see them. We just have to register our names when we pass a checkpointand that’s it.

At one checkpoint our escort hands over his AK47 to us so we make loads of great pictures in martial poses. Just before sunset we approach Nokkundi and pass the gate of the police station where we spend the night at the moment the sun sets. I hurry to the rooftop to take a few pictures of the disappearing sun and find out this village is really beautiful!

I ask the chief of police if I can make a little walk and he replies “no problem”. As the sun has set this very moment I ask again about safety and he tells me in this village no problem. When taking pictures I meet a few boys and soon I get invited to have chai. I think I should go back as it is getting dark but there is a police officer at the place I am invited to. He calls the police station to tell I am here and he “protects” me. So I stay for chai and make contact with many very nice people in this place. Soon another police officer comes from the place where we stay to pick me up. I quickly finish my chai and we go back by motorbike. The chief officer is a little nervous because I was out alone after dark…. I really don´t understand but apologize many times because he is a really nice guy and I don´t want to cause him any troubles. Probably some kind of misunderstanding.

Later Roberto and Marianna cook their famous pasta again – even better than last time! Our escort on the way told me dhal, sabji samosa milega! (possible) “Kaha” (where) I think but the pasta is too good to think about it any further. Before going to bed I visit the rooftop again. The stars and the moon are amazing out here in the dessert!