welcome to the jungle pt II

Also ich bin dann noch einen Tag in Villavieja geblieben bevor ich mich in die Llanos aufgemacht hab.

In Bogota hab ich einmal übernachtet, war einkaufen und bin dann weiter über die Berge. Bogota ist eine Großstadt. schmutzig, kalt (2400müAs) und nicht so gefährlich wie ihr Ruf. Aber kalt! Und Stadt! Nix wie weg nach Villaviecencia (ja man merkt sich diese Namen irgendwann auswendig)!

Unterwegs eine Unterkunft wegen dem günstigen Preis und dem malerischen Swimmingpool gebucht und dann mitten im Naturschutzgebiet gelandet. Eigentlich will ich drei Nächte bleiben doch nach der zweiten Nacht ist ausgebucht… Miguel telefoniert herum, bei einer Freundin würde gehen. Der Platz ist noch tiefer im Dschungel – wunderschön!

Und ich krieg ihn zum selben Preis. Als ich am nächsten Tag ankomme verhandle ich um die schönste Einheit. Normal 250000 (60 Euro pro Nacht), ich handle 144000 (35 Euro) und ein Shiatsu für zwei Nächte inkl Frühstück raus und beschließe mich mit ein paar schönen Fotos für ihren Internetauftritt zu bedanken.

Zwischendurch sehe ich irgendwann meine ersten Affen hier und als ich bei Claudia einziehe wo ich Kabel bei der Dusche gesehen habe, kann ich eine warme Dusche kaum erwarten. Leider sind die Kabel nicht angeschlossen… Kurz darauf entdecke ich eine Natursteinbadewanne mit Whirlpool und definitiv wärmerem Wasser als in der Dusche! 30m hinter meiner Hütte! Hier gefällts mir!

Cali

Am nächsten Tag gehe ich es ruhig an. Frühstück im Quartier und zu Mittag mach ich mich auf in die Innenstadt zum Bankomat. Eher nervös weil die Innenstadt nicht die beste Gegend ist. Es gibt hier nur Geschäfte und die Gehsteige sind so voll mit Ständen dass man sich aneinander Vorbeidrängeln muss. Hier schlafen (und leben) auch die Obdachlosen weil in der Nacht alles ausgestorben ist und sie niemanden stören.

Ich folge der Wegbeschreibung von Google Maps zu einem der seltenen Bankomaten an denen ich kostenfrei abheben kann und finde – nichts! Obwohl ich 2x unter dem auf dem Foto von der Innenstadt deutlichst sichtbaren Schild durchlaufe… Wenn ich das inmitten des Samstagnachmittäglichen Einkaufstrubels (das Foto ist von Sonntag Vormittag) wahr genommen hätte wär mir schon geholfen gewesen.

Aber ich muss 3x nach dem Weg fragen wobei ich jedes mal gewarnt werde dass ich beim Geld abheben vorsichtig sein soll… Beim dritten Mal fragen nimmt mich eine freundliche Dame bei der Hand und bringt mich zu zwei spanplattenverkleideten, hinweislosen Pinkelboxen. Die vor denen auf dem Foto der Obdachlose schläft über den ich steige als ich Sonntag Früh noch einmal Geld abheben gehen werde….

Ich trete ein, und der angenehme Eindruck dass mich niemand beobachten kann weicht dem unangenehmen Gefühl dass ich keine Ahnung habe wer die Tür beobachten könnte! Man kann pro Aktion 300.000.- Pesos, etwa 70 Euro, abheben. Die erste Aktion versemmel ich prompt weil ich kein spanisch kann. Nach gefühlten 20 Minuten als ich endlich fertig bin, und sicher dass jetzt draußen jeder weiß dass ich die Taschen voller Geld habe, stoße ich laut fluchend und mit wütendem Gesicht die Tür auf. Scheiss auf Taxi (was fix geplant war), ich geh zu Fuß heim…

Jedenfalls ist nix passiert und die Innenstadt ist 15 Minuten Fußmarsch vom Hostel entfernt gewesen. Eine gemütliche Entfernung für eine paranoiden Spaziergang.

Heute, Sonntag bin ich dann zu Mittag weiter nach Buenaventura, endlich an den Pazifik. Mit dem Wermutstropfen dass heute, weil Sonntag keine Boote zu den Touristenstränden fahren wo ich endlich ein bisserl Entspannen möchte.

Buenaventura ist eine räudige Stadt, abgefuckt mit verfallenden Gebäuden, dunklen Gestalten an jedem Eck und einem riesigen Jahrmarkt am Pier. Ich treffe Quiri, einen jungen deutschen der schon ein paar Tage da ist und mich dankenswerter Weise einweist. Er erzählt davon mit einem hier gekauften Moped nach Ecuador fahren zu wollen und wir tauschen unsere Kontaktdaten. Einer der Orte wo ich nach Einbruch der Dunkelheit gerne im Hotel bleibe.

…und mich auf den spannenden nächsten Tag freue. Nach der Erfahrung mit den ausgebuchten Hostels in Cali hab ich wieder ein bisserl im Internet geschaut und ein nett ausschauendes auf Whatsapp angeschrieben. Passt alles aber wo ich die Adresse her hab, oder wo die sind….? Keine Ahnung. Ich weiß dass morgen um 9, 13 u 16 Uhr ein Boot geht. Wohin oder wo ich aussteigen soll? Keine Ahnung… Auf meine Anfrage nach den Koordinaten hat er mir die Kontaktdaten von jemandem geschickt der mich mit dem Moped abholen kann wenn ich da bin. Aber wo da ist??? Ich hoffe das klärt sich dann morgen noch! Ich bin jedenfalls schon neugierig… In Australien werd ich wohl nicht landen… Jedenfalls nicht wenn ich morgen das neue T-Shirt anziehe!

Sauerstoff is schon irgendwie cool!

Na wui,…. 4200nochwas Höhenmeter….

Das ist jetzt doch schon ein paar Tage her, unser Führer war ziemlich genial. Das Doofe an der Gschicht war dass das die einzige geführte Tour in den Nationalpark (Los Nevados war welche eine 6 stündige Wanderung zum Gletscher auf ca. 5000müAs inkludiert. Wurscht, hab ich mir gedacht…. schaumamal, Gletscher (fast) am Äquator klingt eh cool. Wie wir oben angekommen sind, also, am Parkplatz, so auf 4200nochwas, ist dann ziemlich schnell die Luft ausgegangen. Für die nächsten paar hundert Höhenmeter war ich dann weder masochistisch noch Lebensmüde genug.

Ich hab dann einmal 3 von den 6 Stunden im Auto geschlafen. Draußen eisigkalt und wie wir alle wissen, wenn feuchte Tropenluft einen Berg hinaufzieht und dabei abkühlt gibt es? Ned leiwand! Ich bin dann noch eine Runde spazieren gegangen und hab ein paar Fotos gemacht, aber allein das atmen ist in der Höhe schon beklemmend – ein ständiges Gefühl keine Luft zu kriegen…. Geraucht hab ich jedenfalls nicht da oben 😀 (was möglicherweise daran liegt dass ich in der Früh irrtümlich Mentholzigaretten gekauft habe BAEH!

Dann hab ich auch noch den Objektivdeckel vom 50mm Objektiv in einen Wasserfall fallen lassen…. Fuck!

In Manizales könnte ich einen kriegen aber als wir zurück kommen sind die Geschäfte schon zu. Egal, wird woanders auch gehen, die Stadt ist schmutzig und abstoßend. Ich hab ja grundlegend nix gegen Nutten… aber… na oida! Die Kathedrale ist wieder recht schön. Irgendwie echt wie in Indien, für die Tempel nimmt man echt Geld in die Hand.

Dan Juans Neffe lebt südlich von Manizales in Andalucia und er hat mir empfohlen einen Sprung vorbei zu schauen was ich auch mache. Die letzten Hotels hat mir alle ein Taxifahrer gezeigt weil mich die Internetsuche einfach genervt hat. Und Taxifahrer die Hotels wie sich herausgestellt hat besser kennen als das Internet…. (und deswegen mag ich deutsch nicht, der Satz ist korrekt und trotzdem kann es missverständlicher nicht sein… egal).

Andalucia hab ich dann wieder im Internet gefunden. Die Fahrt von Manizales nach Andalucia war eher fürchterlich. Ich hab das Gefühl gehabt mein Schädel explodiert was aber mit jedem Höhenmeter abwärts besser geworden ist (Manizales ist immer noch knapp über 2000).

Im dicken Wollpullover steige ich in Manizales in den (Klein)bus und bei aussteigen trifft mich die Tropenluft als würde ich aus einem Flugzeug steigen… Ich setze mich hin und bestelle einen Kaffee (das geht in Kolumbien praktisch immer und überall)… und ein Taxi zum Hotel. Das Hotel macht einen feinen Eindruck. Kein warmes Wasser kann man bei der Temperatur hier verkraften.

Ich mache einen kleinen Spaziergang im Dorf (das Hotel ist, wie sich das für Dörfer gehört, am Hauptplatz. Fast nirgends wo man Kaffee kriegt darf man rauchen, damn. Egal, ich schlafe gut und finde heraus dass ich den Objektivdeckel nicht in Tulua bekomme und wohl nach Cali muss. Das war eigentlich schon wieder nicht mein Plan. Ich will nach Buenaventura, endlich an die Pazifikküste! Den Platz vor dem mich alle warnen und von dem einige wenige schwärmen.

Das Hotel ist schräg! Irgendwie hat an hier manchmal den Eindruck in einem Kriegsgebiet zu sein. Jedesmal wenn ich ins Hotel rein oder raus will muss ich läuten und dann kommt jemand um aufzusperren und mich rein bzw raus zulassen. Als ich nach der ersten Nacht vom Frühstück zurück komme werde ich beim einlassen informiert dass mein Zimmer gerade geputzt wird. WAS? Frage ich kurz und denke: seids deppert? ohne fragen? Zimmertür sperrangelweit offen, Laptop am Bett, Zimmermädchen im Badezimmer! Ich schicke sie raus, dusche schnell und packe mein Zeug – wenigstens fehlt nix. Ich schreibe Daniel und Jose was passiert ist und als Jose gerade aufs Motorrad setzen will um mich zu holen macht es einen Platscher – etwa eine Stunde lang und wir beschließen darauf zu warten dass Jose das Auto von der Wäsche bekommt – oder ein Bootsverleih eröffnet wird…

Ich werde wegen meines Ungehorsams mehr oder weniger auf den Parkplatz verbannt wo ich unter einem… Wellblech… frühstücke: Semmeln mit reifer Avokado, Cheddar, Paradeiser und Paprika! Sehr sehr genial! Als der Regen etwas nachlässt werde ich auch des Parkplatzes verwiesen und gehe ins Kaffee ums Eck.

Fünf Minuten später steht Jose mit einem Freund vor mir. Die Burschen sind sofort sympathisch, und machen sofort eine lost places Führung im Ort für mich! Sehr geniale Teile! Bei einem ist der Putz teilweise abgefallen und die Bambuslatten die noch stehen schauen aus wie das Gerippe von einem verrottendem Kadaver der noch bevor er vollständig verwest ist von Pflanzen überwuchert wird…. In der Äquatorsonne zwischen den beiden Andenkordillieren….

Ich konnte einfach nicht widerstehen…..

Als es zu finster zum fotografieren wird fahren wir zu Jose nach Hause. Daniels Schwester, ihr Mann und dessen Mutter – die Oma von Jose empfangen mich herzlich. Ich versuche einen Erdäpfelsalat für alle zu machen aber scheitere daran “festkochend” zu übersetzen. Die Erdäpfel werden beim kochen zu Püree….

Abgesehen davon sitzen wir bis spät in die Nacht auf der Straße, die halbe Nachbarschaft zusammen und wir haben einen Heidenspaß – wobei das Wort vor der Kulisse wohl ein Fehlgriff ist.

Ich schlafe in einem superschönem Raum am Rooftop und erst nach dem aufwachen am nächsten Tag bemerke ich den wunder wunder wunder schönen Ausblick den man von hier hat! Wow! Danke! Nach einem ausgiebigen Frühstück mit Kakao statt Kaffee (Yeah!) fahren wir alle nach Tulua. Bis ich im Bus nach Cali sitze wird sich um mich gekümmert! Daniel! Deine Familie ist echt genial! Danke!

In Kali angekommen sind die ersten fünf Hostel wo ich anklopfe voll! Dann muss halt Booking herhalten und ich lande zentrumsnah in einer sehr gemütlichen, sehr sicher wirkenden Gegend in einem Hostel/Kunstgalerie dass vor einem Monat eröffnet hat. Der Host ist sehr sehr bemüht, meine Nachbarin ist eine deutsche die laut auf deutsch telefoniert als ich ankomme und dabei nicht mitkriegt dass ich jedes Wort verstehe – ich höre weg.

Schon beim ersten Spaziergang nach Downtown bekomme ich den Objektivdeckel – mit Nikon Schriftzug um 3 Euro.

Hvar 2

Nothing special today… the predicted rain happend at night (before I woke up). Caught a bad sunburn when riding yesterday and was intelligent enough to buy ready made spaghetti for dinner. Of course I visited my love again today and made another amazing video which I have to cut at home before publishing. Been to Stari Grad which happens to be another amazing harbour town and visited the barber there – only machine :(. Enjoyed an amazing sunset :).

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Paragliding Lebanon NOT

Next morning the sky is blue and hardly any wind, I look up to the cedar take off which is a 1.5 hours drive away but visible from the rooftop. I can’t wait, take my stuff and leave direction Bcharre at around 7.30. Alan is flying at Miziara which is a little further than Bcharre so I call him to get me a clearance for cedars to make one flight there on the way to Miziara where I want to meet him. The view to Bekan Valley is beautiful and I enjoy being alone for the first time for a week a lot. At 1850m above sea level patches of snow appear next to the road. At 1990m the road is blocked by snow! Fuck! It’s April 14., and I’m in Lebanon!

I turn around and go to the next mountain pass further south – Tarfaya. Alan suggests Beirut which one more further south. I am horrified by the traffic of Beirut and think when Tarfaya is blocked too I will not fly today. Fortunately Tarafaya is open. It’s like starting in Pakistan (people spak arab and are armed – honor counts more than law), passing Austria (the skiing regions up in the mountains) end ending up at the French Riviera (French is spoken and the landscape looks a lot like Cote d Azur, Ferraris are a little less than in France but visible on the streets – churches instead of mosques).

Jounieh take of is empty when I arrive. It is incredibly amazing and I can’t wait to fly down to the Mediterranean Sea. There is a gentle lift close by the mountain and the flying conditions are perfect for a nice flight enjoying the fantastic view. Alan had suggested to come here as Miziara is at least another hour driving and its past 1pm already. I have to be back for dinner at Alis place at 7pm – we are invited. I am in contact with Farah because of my Army clearance for the flight – Alan is flying and Farah asks me to wait a little as there are problems with my clearance. He promises to keep calling them while I wait. Suddenly a few cars arrive. The first guy jumps out of the car towards me and asks me what I do here. I’d like to fly I answer. He asks me whom I asked for it, if I have a cellphone and If I am in contact with somebody… “Secret army”? I think when he recognizes my face and starts laughing. He shakes my hand, kisses me and introduces himself – “Omar, acro pilot”. I give him my phone and tell him about the situation: no clearance yet. I watch them take of twice and at 4pm I give up.

I write a message to Alan and leave. Alan texts me back and invites me for coffee to his place which is not far away – of course I go. Alan is a very nice guy and tells me about the current situation. The army is very strict about flying at the moment as there has been intelligence reports about terrorists who want to attack using paragliders! I wonder what the Austrian air force should do in Lebanon and how they should get there – but maybe there are other groups using paragliders who have more than rocks to throw. Alan is very sorry that I can’t fly today and invites me for dinner. I would love to stay but have an appointment at “home”.

The situation about flying will probably change again very quickly and I consider what happened incredible bad luck. Lebanon is just amazing to fly and at the moment all military restrictions find an end it will be possible to travel the whole country by paraglider. Where else can you do something like this?

Sun sun sun here I come!

Within five minutes the greenish spot becomes a strong stripe and the show begins. I put the camera out, turn on engine and heating and enjoy. After a while I change the place… several times until I finally find a spot on a hill full of trees, a place where they put the snow from the street, enough place to park and a perfect place to put the camera on one of the snow hills. There is a little fog rising between the trees and when I am just about to prepare the camera the Aurora becomes extremely strong! All the sky is shining green, much stronger than the moon, with patterns that move very quickly. As I am on a hill the Aurora seems to be even below me shining into the fog between the trees where the dancing of the sky is reflected. “They are finally here to pick me up!” I think for a second.

This is astonishing and scary at the same time – psychedelic and unbelievable. Green, dancing fog all around me and green dancing light all above me – it feels like a hallucination as the things I know and have seen in this reality before become very little at this moment. I am paralyzed and do not manage to take only one picture of this. The fog disappears then but the Aurora continues and goes crazy all night. Its incredibly cold – outside of the car. But to be honest I the quality is much better outside so I spend a lot time outside, probably 5 minutes every half an hour!

Tonight I fall asleep a little before 4 am and wake up freezing when the display is still going on. Checking the camera I realize it to be totally covered in ice crystals. Battery out and get it warm – ten minutes later its out working again with a fresh battery. I enjoy one last time and properly say good bye to the Aurora. Tonight I will be so far south that the chances to see her again there are really slim.

When dawn is really breaking through around 6 o clock its 7 already – Finland is one hour later so the (only) petrol station (near or far) which is 17km back will already be open…. I guess….

Bad luck – opening hours 10am-10pm – damn!

So no coffee and lets head south! Its 270km to Rovaniemi only and I have all day. Sky is blue! When the sun rises at 7:49 (local time) I am in Muonio already. I go down to a little lake to shock some people who live there when making pictures of the lake from their property. The gate has been open and I did not feel bad to park there at all and as the guy turns out to be a photographer I am very welcome. We have a little chat and he tells me where I can find the next car part shop to refill my power stirring. Its incredibly cold when I find that swiss café in the village where I get an amazing cappuccino and real Vienna Sacher Torte! Yeah! And the owners are really from Switzerland!

The low sun makes an amazing light and I am really slowly – sometimes I drive less than 500m between the stops to just enjoy and to take pictures. When the sun sets at 16:40 I feel the tiredness and I am way too late in the evening to meet Miro in time. I was supposed to be there around 6pm and now its already passed 7 and I still have 40km to go on the snowy road. Suddenly I see a strange looking cloud in the front to my left. No way, I think – I am looking towards south and into the moon, and I am almost at the Arctic Circle now.

Road map

staring at the sun

The hole in the clouds is expected exactly between Sommaroy and Tromso tonight – so I don’t need to chase, I just need to wait… And I do so drinking free coffee in the lobby all sunday morning doing internet and writing the whale blog. Chatting with a friend from Helsinki she gives me a contact to stay at in Rovaniemi just a little before I leave. I am already ready to go so I am pretty straight with Miro after he confirms my friendship request and ask him if I can sleep at his place at Tuesday. He is pretty straight too and says yes. I am a little confused because not having expected this but very curious and looking forward to meet him. In the afternoon while it is still light I drive to Tromso to get Petrol, a Pizza and some supplies for tonight.

The sun sets at 15:36. Aurora forecast predicts nothing while waiting at the Pizza shop but still I leave around 7 o clock to go to a nice viewpoint at a Fjord which I had found hours ago. The weather is nice, blue sky and pretty warm at around 0˚C. As I find out the temperature here is hardly ever less than -10 because of the gulf stream… even though I am way further north than Abisko where it had around -30 in the coldest nights I have experienced.

When I arrive the half moon is out and shining strongly. I curse it because it blinds me so much I hardly see the northern lights at first… but suddenly they become stronger…. and stronger…. and stronger forming one of the most amazing Displays I have ever seen. I have seen pictures of pink and purple Displays in the last days and strongly hope for one… but in vain. Still the mirroring effect in the Fjord is just incredible and I stay until the moon descends behind the summit of a long hill a little before 2am – still more than two hours until it will be below the horizon but the blinding effct is much less and the Display too – until the moon comes out again at the side of the hill. I leave to another place in a valley where I guess there will be less light pollution. I arrange the camera and fall asleep.

Waking up I am not really freezing, it feels a little chilly but the sky is blue – I start the engine, pack the camera (missed not too much) and hit the road. Before the sun rises at 8:18 I pass Tromso quickly heading along more amazingly beautiful Fjords and enjoying the beautiful weather. Approaching the finish border the population gets visibly less. While along the Fjords there are pretty well populated villages every now and then 50 km before the border I see the last petrol station. And then it gets cold. The border is kind of a “mountain” pass – at 500m elevation a little above tree level and situated in an amazing landscape.

Another tiny village at the finish side – mostly two hotels of which one is closed, one petrol station and a shop – no more houses and this will be the biggest town for the next 200km. The landscape is empty – just the road, the sun, the nature and me. A little before sunset I suddenly notice a huge elk to the right side of the road. Krkrkrkr – the same noise like always when I hit the brakes and then I slowly roll out – hardly any grip here I go back and there they are standing in front of the setting sun! An incredible view of these crazy animals. I quickly take some pictures and then just enjoy the view. They really seem to enjoy the sun and it looks exactly as funny as in the Disney movies I have seen as a child when these huge animals start to jump around in the deep snow and go crazy for the sun! When the sun sets at 15:35 (norwegian time) I arrive at the next petrol station and ask for a place to spend the night – the rooms at the petrol station are full and the hotel behind either – next hotel 60km but no guarantee for a room.

The forecast says the cloud hole will be here tonight and not 60km east… The Aurora forecast is pretty bad for tonight so I decide to get a Reindeer steak and wait a little at the restaurant of the petrol station. Outside its around -25˚C again and the sky is clear. I am used to trust the clear sky more than the Aurora forecast and the decision to spend the night outside again was made before ordering the food already anyway. The Restaurant closes at 10 – I head back towards northwest around 7. After 10 minutes driving I recognize some clouds at the horizon in the direction I am heading to – but not a glimpse of an Aurora! I stop and watch the situation for a few minutes, the clouds are slowly moving towards me so I turn around heading where I need to go anyway – southeast, away from the clouds and the Aurora.

A little before passing the petrol station I recognize a very weak greenish spot in the sky – just for a second. I accelerate, quickly pass the light pollution and stop maybe 5km after the village. Is an amazing place, a flat and beautiful ice desert. I have always loved deserts: Jordan, Sahara, Balochistan, Thar, and many more. The similarities are astonishing, the clear skies, tiny population, life threatening but amazingly beautiful nature – the loneliness and the dependency on and responsibility for yourself. Here you can die within minutes and nobody will be near enough to help you in any way. I love this place! I stop at a small parking lot in between walls of snow next to the street having an incredible overview of the flats to the north and the moon being in the south – not being supposed to set before 4:30am – at 5:30 dawn is starting.

Road map

Out of the blue

The next day it snows… all day and all night. Time enough to enjoy my cottage at the beach, update my blog and learn a little more about lightroom… Friday its still too windy so I make a trip to Tromso to go shopping and have a look at the take off Arlid, the guy from the Paragliding club Tromso, suggested. An amazing place and I really have the feeling I have to come back here to fly more – maybe when its warmer.

When coming back from Tromso the wind has calmed down and I decide to make another attempt at night. When I walk up at dark the wind is pretty strong but I know the way pretty well by now and the conditions have been just like this at my first flight. Arriving at the take off there is no wind, some clouds and no northern lights.

For about five minutes. As soon as I have prepared to start a cold and stiff wind from the north blows into my face. I am just at the right take off but that wind is just too much for me. I know pilotes who would easily do it, but not me, not at night and not out in the North Atlantic…. And not if there is no Aurora! I walk back down, I need some sleep as I have arranged a whale safari tomorrow morning.

I try to see some wildlife on all of my trips and here it seems to be an amazing opportunity to watch whales which are here even though they should be in the south right now, but well, temperature at daytime is around 0˚C now…. Orcas and Humpback whales are here. I have seen Humpbacks in Husavik in Iceland but have failed to take proper pictures then. Orcas I have never seen in the wild before.

When we go out the wind is calm and the sea pretty flat, sun is shining and its an amazing day! Soon after leaving the harbor on the small boat (7m only) we see the first Orcas. But let the pictures speak for themselves!

When we come back the wind is still calm. While resting a little I prepare for another flight at dusk but wind is getting stronger again and I am actually too exhausted to run and down the rock again. I rest, enjoy an amazing sunset at the balcony and wait for northern lights in the evening – but fall asleep before they come.

Sunday morning I check out, forecast for tonight predicts a geomagnetic storm and clear sky above Sommaroy. I check out in the morning and prepare for a night outside between Sommaroy and Tromso.

Into the black

Monday morning! According to the forecast tonight is the last chance to have an Aurora flight for several days. I need some help to collect my camera after I started and to illuminate the landing area. Anders is of duty today and the staff of the hotel is incredibly busy with thousands of guests who came by the weekend. I try to find somebody all day but not really successful. At the evening its windy and cloudy so I go towards Kiruna with some other guests where we enjoy a pretty nice show in the sky. When we come back later the sky is clear at Björkliden – but no Aurora. A little later the Tirolean guys who came yesterday arrive, we have a short chat, they help me and we go to the upper end of the skiing slope between reception and camping area – 100m elevation only – but enough in a pitch black night.

When we arrive at the launching area there is a light breeze from the back coming down the mountain, hardly any Aurora visible…. I wait until the wind is a little less and start. Its an amazing flight in the dark, no problem at all and I feel totally secure. The landing site is full of light and I come down without a problem – I am only unsatisfied because I hardly saw any Auroras while flying.

Next day morning I check out. I start to really love this place but I’ve been here too long already. Arriving people believe I am hotel staff which is a proper sign to go. I contacted some paragliders in Norway who helped me a lot finding better chances than last night. Especially one guy in Tromso was very helpful and told me a site about 25km west of Tromso – without light pollution and far away enough from any airport to make it perfectly legal to fly there at night.

All the way it snows a lot, all is white and there is nothing else but white. No shadows, no contrasts only red sticks make the side of the road visible for much of the way. When I arrive at Tromso I am done. First choice of lonely planet is full and another hotel recommended by them either. Staff of the smart hotel in Tromso is very kind and tries to find a place for me. “Do you have a car?”. A little later I drive to the west, to a small island called Sommaroy where they have a room for one night. Approaching I unexpectedly see the first stars.

Road map

When I arrive at the hotel I quickly move into an amazingly beautiful room with huge windows. I test the bed but as soon as I switch of the light I see Auroras dancing in the sky. Time to explore the Island. Being maybe 500m in square Hilleroy the neighbor Island where I am when I step out of the hotel is pretty easy to be overviewed. The flat north part is protected from the light pollution of the village by a mountain, a hill, actually by a huge rock rising out of the north Atlantic. Just water between me and the North Pole!

Its totally dark but there is one small road with strong street lamps on the island – straight for about 200m leaving a flat space of maybe 20m to the sea – perfect for landing at night. The hill seems to be flyable either… Before I go to bed I have a little talk with Evva, the kind receptionist and tell her about my planes, asking if there might be a possibility to stay more than a night (“I have a Yogamat and a sleeping bag, I just need a warm place”)– she promises to check until next morning and I go to bed.

Wednesday morning the flag in the garden is hanging down 45 degrees, it seems to become a sunny day and after a little breakfast I check out my room and make ready to fly. Before I leave Evva tells me she has found a solution, one of the fishing huts for two days, same price. Its an amazingly beautiful place I move in, I just don’t really recognize at this second because in my mind I am in the air already.

The rock seems to be perfect with starting possibilities to all directions. 200m elevation are possible to be done as there is a rope to handle up all the way, still only for people who have alpine experience. Up there I see the low sun to the south and the cold, clear, blue and beautiful sea to the west. Wind is NNW so I start pretty much towards the open sea. The flight is just beautiful! It is February, I am 350km north of the Arctic Circle and paragliding at the edge of the continent, the low sun is shining in my face and I don’t feel cold at all in my 7 layers of clothes.

After landing I meet Gökay who is here from turkey and made an amazing slow motion movie of me flying. Tonight is the night and I ask him if he can make a movie at night too – he can. In the afternoon I talk to Kjell who seems to be a manager here – we have kind of the same hair style and travel habits, we like each other immediately. When chatting with him in the afternoon I miss the time and am late to get up the hill.

At this point the contact details of this place as it is for sure one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen! It must be an amazing place to soar the rock in the midnight sun of summertime as well as to fly in the northern lights… and for sure it is for fishing, hiking, kayaking, whale watching, … even diving in summer time between colorful coral reefs of a crystal clear sea! Ah the contact: www.sommaroy.no and of course they have a facebook account!

Little wind, clear sky, Aurora is starting to dance. When I arrive at the climbing path next to the tunnel for the military to drive up the Aurora is dancing in the sky. I hurry and when I arrive at the top a stiff and cold wind from the south is blowing in my face. I didn’t look for southern starting possibilities at all but manage to find one. Wind from the south means its blowing out to the sea….hmm.

At the first attempt to get out the wing the wind takes it and several lines get tangled. I have taken wood with me but think the wind will be less very soon so I don’t make a fire. I am busy to untangle the lines anyway which keeps me warm. When I make a break I take a drink out of my bag, drink half of it and by then the other half is frozen. All over my stuff ice crystals are forming and everything turns white.

Above me the Aurora is dancing while the wind keeps blowing, I should have made fire! I keep in contact with Gökay via phone and tell him every now and then how the things are. Around two hours after my arrival on the hilltop the wind calms down, The Aurora is dancing beautifully and I put my headlamp in my pocket as the batteries suffer a lot from the cold, the Gopro remains an ice block doing nothing but some beeps like crying for help. I will be in the warm car in 5 minutes is pretty much all I can think when making last preparations to start and two minutes later I’m airborne to enjoy the most incredible flight ever!

Its even more magic than I have imagined, I don’t feel cold at all anymore, as soon as I am away from the mountain I switch of the head lamp which is getting already lower again by the cold and just enjoy the unbelievable scenery! Much too quickly I am landing but this experience I will for sure never ever forget. I am done but overwhelmed, get the stuff together and go to the hotel.

At the reception I meet Gökay who seems to be a little shocked because he has lost sight when I switched of the headlamp in the moment he dropped a battery. I try to calm him down, fortunately all the others were not so shocked as I had appeared pretty quickly. What can I say…. YESYESYESYESYESYESYESYESYES! DID IT!!! YEAH!

This flight is dedicated to the starman – David Bowie (before watching the pictures please click the name)